Reflection Paper #3: YOUR PASSION
There is something about water, and nature in general, that calms me down and inspires me. Aside from its beauty, it's the fear and respect for things that we cannot control and predict, hence my love affair with Surfing. Before I started surfing, I would say I was a sheltered and jaded person. A good friend of mine introduced me to the sport after I asked her why her skin was so tan. She did not know how to swim but she was brave enough to be surfing for a year. At first, it was just my curiosity and natural tendency to try something new that intrigues me. After my first surfing lesson, I quickly found myself going with her and our friends to different places to surf almost every weekend. Soon, I was taking my brothers and also influenced them into taking up the sport. I was hooked to the "stoke" of being able to ride a wave after an agonizing hour of trying to get to the lineup and paddling for waves. No amount of cramps or lactic acid build up in my muscles could get in the way of getting at least one wave.
Surfing has taught me the value of preparation and hard work. People who are new to it would say that it is all about balance, but that is so far from the truth. For me, it is 70% paddling, 10% timing, 15% ocean / wave reading, and 5% balance. Surfing rewards you when you work hard for every wave, and put in "water-time" to build muscle memory and to improve your wave reading skills. In some spots, you have to paddle for 30minutes or more (depending on your fitness & surfing level) before you get to the line-up (this is the point in the ocean where the waves have not yet broken and where most of the surfers would wait for each set to come). If you are not mentally and physically prepared to paddle that long and fight through the breaking waves, you will not get there. Getting to the line-up is just the first part, working for a wave is another thing. You need to be able to read the wave if it will be able to carry you, and feel when you need to stand up. This is where timing comes in. Paddle too late or stand up too soon, you will miss the wave.
Aside from the possibility of drowning, you can get injured by your board, other surfers' boards, or the rocks and reefs at the beach. Knowing where and when to go out is also another thing. You need to be able to read the ocean, where the currents are, and to be observant of the other surfer's actions in the water. You need to learn the characteristics of the ocean or the spot where you are playing. Where the reef is, where the rocks are hidden, to which directions the currents will take you and where these currents are, among other things. If you do not learn this properly, you will end up wasting a lot of energy trying to get to the lineup when you should have been paddling somewhere else (where the current is, so it will carry you out to the sea), or worse, get carried off by the current and not be able to get back to the shore or hit a reef because you didn't know it was there.
It is this important factor that has brought me closer to people. I've always thought of myself as a person who cannot do team sports because I am too critical of myself and of others. I thought surfing was an "individual" sport but this is not the case. Surfing has taught me that it is important to talk to people and to rely on them, because it is impossible for you to know or learn everything on your own. If you do not talk to the locals or other surfers, you will not learn where the other surf spots are, you will not learn how the waves move in that spot or the characteristics of the beach. Talking with other surfers and the locals gives you invaluable information that will not only help you enjoy your time in that spot, but might also save your life.
There have been two times when I thought I was going to die while I was surfing. The most recent one was the second time I surfed in a spot in Anawangin (Zambales). The surf was very strong that day but I went ahead and thought to myself that I should at least try it. I had hesitated while I was paddling to get a wave so I wiped out and the waves kept pushing me down and I could not get back to the surface. I knew that I was already at the shallow reef part of the beach so my movement under the surf was limited because I could hit my head on rocks or coral. I have never felt so helpless in my life, but I had managed to fight it and to clear my head and focus on how I could get out of the situation. I realized at that moment that I was stronger than I thought I was, but at the same time, I also thought why I had not asked for help from other people. Had I made one wrong move, I would have been pushed further into the shallow reef, and I would have had peeled off a lot of flesh and skin, or worse, I could have drowned. I realized that I should have asked for help, and that I should not be ashamed to do so. Accepting that sometimes you cannot handle things on your own is something I also needed to learn.